Train des Pignes: Discover Provence's Hidden Railway from Nice to Digne-les-Bains
Most visitors arriving in Nice never venture beyond the beaches and glamorous resorts of the Côte d'Azur. Yet just a short walk from the city's main station, another railway tells a completely different story.
The Train des Pignes leaves the Mediterranean behind almost immediately, climbing steadily through narrow valleys, medieval villages and dramatic limestone landscapes before reaching the spa town of Digne-les-Bains. Operated by the historic Chemins de Fer de Provence, this metre-gauge railway has been carrying passengers into the mountains for more than a century and remains one of France's most underrated scenic rail journeys.
Unlike the sleek TGV network, this is slow travel in the best possible sense. The train winds through landscapes that simply couldn't be appreciated at high speed, passing vineyards, rivers, pine forests and sleepy villages where life still revolves around the local market rather than the tourist season.
Why this journey is so special
The greatest surprise about the Train des Pignes is how quickly the scenery changes. Within thirty minutes of leaving Nice, the Mediterranean has disappeared completely. Apartment blocks give way to olive groves, mountain streams and deep rocky gorges, while villages perch high above the valley exactly as they have for centuries.
Much of the line follows the River Var before climbing into the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. The engineering is impressive without ever feeling overwhelming, with elegant stone bridges, short tunnels and sweeping curves revealing another beautiful panorama every few minutes.
Because the railway serves local communities rather than tourists, the atmosphere feels wonderfully authentic. You'll often find walkers heading into the hills, schoolchildren travelling home and local residents carrying shopping alongside visitors discovering the route for the first time.
History, culture and the railway that almost disappeared
The railway opened between 1891 and 1911, originally linking Nice with Digne as part of an ambitious plan to connect the Alps with the Mediterranean. Its nickname, Train des Pignes, dates from the era of steam locomotives, when local people joked that passengers had enough time during the slower uphill climbs to collect pine cones ("pignes" in Provençal) for their fires.
Like many rural railways across Europe, the line faced repeated threats of closure during the twentieth century as road transport became more popular. Thanks to local support and regional investment, it survived and today remains one of France's last privately operated regional railways.
Travelling on it feels like stepping back into a gentler age of rail travel, where the journey itself is every bit as important as the destination.
A taste of Provence
Leaving the Riviera also means entering a different culinary world.
Fresh Mediterranean seafood gradually gives way to rustic Provençal cooking, where olive oil, mountain herbs, goat's cheese and seasonal vegetables take centre stage. Depending on the time of year, local markets overflow with lavender honey, artisan cheeses, olives and fragrant herbs harvested from the surrounding hills.
Digne is particularly known for its lavender products and mountain honey, while villages along the route celebrate traditional Provençal recipes that have changed little over generations.
Planning your journey
The Train des Pignes departs from Nice CP (Chemins de Fer de Provence) station, located just a few minutes' walk from Nice-Ville station. The journey to Digne-les-Bains takes around 3 hours 30 minutes, with several departures most days.
Reservations are generally unnecessary, making it an easy addition to a longer itinerary through southern France.
For the best views, simply choose whichever side has space. The scenery changes constantly as the railway twists through valleys and across bridges, so both sides offer excellent photo opportunities.
Where to stay
If you'd like to spend a night before departing, Hôtel Amour Nice (@hotelamournice) offers stylish boutique accommodation within easy reach of the railway station while capturing the relaxed spirit of the city.
At the end of the line, Le Refuge des Sources (@lerefugedessources) offers a peaceful retreat surrounded by greenery on the edge of Digne-les-Bains. With a pool, gardens and easy access to both the town centre and surrounding countryside, it's an ideal place to unwind before exploring more of Provence.
Where to eat
Before setting off, it's worth taking time to enjoy some of Nice's excellent food scene. Tucked away in the Old Town, La Merenda (@lamerendanice) is something of a local institution. Its tiny dining room and traditional Niçoise menu have earned a devoted following, with dishes such as daube, stuffed vegetables and homemade pasta celebrating the flavours of the region. Reservations are essential, and there isn't even a telephone—booking is part of the experience.
For a completely different atmosphere, Le Plongeoir (@leplongeoir) offers one of the most memorable dining settings on the French Riviera. Perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop above the Mediterranean, it's an ideal place for a leisurely lunch before catching the Train des Pignes. Fresh seafood and seasonal Mediterranean dishes are served with uninterrupted sea views that perfectly capture the spirit of Nice.
After arriving in Digne-les-Bains, Le Bleu Cerise (@lebleucerisedigne) is an excellent choice for dinner. This contemporary bistro showcases Provençal cuisine with a modern touch, using seasonal ingredients from the surrounding countryside. It's a relaxed but refined way to round off one of France's most rewarding rail journeys, and a reminder that some of Provence's best food is found well away from the tourist crowds.
Real Travel Guides Insight
Many visitors treat this as a return day trip from Nice, but staying overnight in Digne transforms the experience. The town is an excellent base for exploring the surrounding Geopark, famous for its dramatic landscapes, lavender fields and hiking trails.
If you're travelling during June or early July, you'll also catch Provence at its most colourful, when lavender begins to bloom across the surrounding countryside.
Above all, don't expect dramatic Alpine peaks or glamorous Riviera resorts. The appeal of the Train des Pignes lies in its quiet authenticity. It's a railway that reveals a side of southern France many visitors never discover.
Discover more of France by rail
The Train des Pignes perfectly captures why travelling by rail allows you to experience France differently. Instead of racing between famous destinations, you'll uncover hidden landscapes, historic villages and regional traditions that remain largely untouched by mass tourism.
If you're planning a rail holiday through France, Touring France by Train combines practical rail advice, carefully planned itineraries and insider recommendations to help you discover both the country's iconic highlights and its lesser-known gems.
Available on Amazon: https://mybook.to/TouringFrancebyTrain
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