Around Mount Etna by Train: Sicily's Most Extraordinary Railway Journey
Most visitors experience Mount Etna from a coach window or on a guided excursion to the summit. They admire Europe's highest active volcano for a few hours before returning to the coast, never discovering the communities that have lived in its shadow for centuries.
The Ferrovia Circumetnea offers a completely different perspective.
Departing from Catania, this historic narrow-gauge railway circles the lower slopes of Mount Etna through ancient lava fields, vineyards, pistachio groves and timeless Sicilian villages before reaching the medieval town of Randazzo. Along the way, the landscape changes constantly as the volcano dominates the horizon, reminding you that Etna is not simply a mountain but a living force that continues to shape the island.
Unlike Sicily's fast coastal trains, this is a journey to savour. The Ferrovia Circumetnea is still an everyday railway used by local residents, schoolchildren and commuters, giving travellers a rare opportunity to experience authentic Sicilian life while enjoying some of the island's most dramatic scenery.
Why this journey is so special
One of the greatest pleasures of the Ferrovia Circumetnea is its variety. Within minutes of leaving Catania, the busy streets begin to fade behind citrus groves and fertile farmland nourished by volcanic soil.
As the train climbs, black lava flows appear beside the tracks, some centuries old, others reminders of eruptions within living memory. Vineyards stretch across the lower slopes, producing the increasingly celebrated wines of Etna DOC, while groves of pistachios, almonds and olives flourish in the rich mineral soil.
The villages along the route each have their own distinct character. Adrano, Bronte and Randazzo have all developed alongside the volcano, adapting to its frequent eruptions while embracing the extraordinary fertility it provides. Churches built from black volcanic stone, quiet piazzas and traditional cafés make each stop feel genuinely lived-in rather than designed for tourism.
Above it all rises Mount Etna itself. Depending on the weather, you may see wisps of steam drifting from the summit or snow lingering on the upper slopes long after spring has arrived elsewhere in Sicily. Few European railway journeys offer such a close relationship with an active volcano.
A railway born from the volcano
The Ferrovia Circumetnea opened in 1895, linking the communities that surrounded Mount Etna at a time when road travel was slow and often unreliable. Built as a metre-gauge railway, it provided farmers with an essential route for transporting produce to market while connecting isolated villages with Catania.
The railway's survival is remarkable. Many similar rural lines disappeared during the twentieth century, but the Circumetnea continues to serve local communities while becoming one of Sicily's most rewarding scenic rail journeys.
Its route has occasionally been altered by volcanic activity, a reminder that Etna continues to reshape the landscape. Living alongside Europe's most active volcano has always demanded resilience, and nowhere is that relationship more evident than from the window of this remarkable railway.
Travelling here isn't simply about reaching another destination. It's about understanding how generations of Sicilians have adapted to life on one of Europe's most extraordinary landscapes.
A taste of Etna
Volcanic soil produces some of Sicily's finest food.
Around Mount Etna, vineyards create elegant reds and crisp whites under the Etna DOC appellation, while Bronte is famous worldwide for its pistachios, widely regarded as among the finest in the world. Local restaurants celebrate seasonal ingredients including wild mushrooms, citrus fruits, almonds, olives and cheeses produced in the surrounding countryside.
In Catania, seafood remains central to the city's cuisine thanks to its position on the Ionian coast. Fresh swordfish, pasta alla Norma, arancini and cannoli are all essential parts of any visit.
As the train climbs inland, menus gradually become heartier, reflecting the agricultural traditions of Etna's mountain communities. Slow-cooked meats, handmade pasta and local wines replace the lighter seafood dishes of the coast, offering a culinary journey that mirrors the changing landscape outside the carriage windows.
Planning your journey
The Ferrovia Circumetnea departs from Catania Borgo station, easily reached via Catania's Metro from the city centre and Catania Centrale.
The complete journey to Randazzo takes around three hours, with several departures each day. No reservations are required, making it easy to include within a wider Sicilian itinerary.
Many visitors choose to stop in Bronte, famous for its pistachios, before continuing later to Randazzo. Others combine the railway with one of the local buses serving Etna's visitor centres, allowing them to explore the volcano before returning by train.
The route is beautiful throughout the year, but spring and autumn are particularly rewarding, when vineyards are either bursting into life or glowing with autumn colour, while the upper slopes of Etna may still be capped with snow.
Where to stay
Before beginning your journey, Palace Catania | UNA Esperienze (@palace_catania) is an excellent base in the heart of Catania. Its rooftop terrace enjoys spectacular views towards Mount Etna, making it the perfect place to watch the volcano change colour as the sun sets before exploring it the following day.
Near Randazzo, Monaci delle Terre Nere (@monacidelleterrenere) offers one of Sicily's finest boutique stays. Set among vineyards and orchards on Etna's northern slopes, this beautifully restored country estate combines elegant contemporary design with historic Sicilian architecture. It's an ideal place to slow down after the railway journey and experience Etna's renowned wine country.
Where to eat
Before boarding the train, Me Cumpari Turiddu (@mecumparituriddu) offers one of Catania's most authentic dining experiences. Traditional Sicilian recipes, local wines and warm hospitality make it an excellent introduction to the island's distinctive cuisine.
Seafood lovers should also consider Osteria Antica Marina (@osteriaanticamarina), located beside Catania's famous fish market. Daily catches from the Ionian Sea are transformed into classic Sicilian dishes in one of the city's best-known restaurants.
After completing the journey, Cave Ox (@caveox) near Randazzo celebrates everything that makes Etna unique. Seasonal local produce, exceptional Etna wines and beautifully presented Sicilian cooking create an unforgettable meal surrounded by the volcanic landscape that shaped every ingredient on the menu.
Real Travel Guides Insight
Many visitors only see Mount Etna from the summit.
The Ferrovia Circumetnea reveals something far more interesting—the communities that have lived alongside the volcano for generations. Every village tells a story of rebuilding after eruptions, adapting to changing landscapes and making the most of remarkably fertile volcanic soil.
Rather than treating the railway as a return day trip, consider spending a night around Randazzo or the Etna wine region. It allows you to explore vineyards, medieval villages and local walking trails at a slower pace, while experiencing a side of Sicily that many visitors overlook completely.
If you're visiting during autumn, you'll also find the Etna wine harvest in full swing, making it one of the most atmospheric times to explore this remarkable corner of the island.
Above all, don't expect a polished panoramic railway. The Ferrovia Circumetnea is a working railway first and a scenic journey second. That authenticity is precisely what makes it one of Italy's most rewarding rail experiences.
Discover more of Italy by train
The Ferrovia Circumetnea perfectly demonstrates why travelling by rail allows you to experience Italy differently. Instead of simply visiting Mount Etna, you'll discover the villages, traditions and landscapes that have evolved around Europe's most active volcano for centuries.
If you're planning to explore Italy by rail, Touring Italy by Train combines practical rail advice, carefully planned itineraries and insider recommendations to help you experience both the country's iconic highlights and its lesser-known gems.
Available on Amazon: https://mybook.to/TouringItalyByTrain
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