Italy

There are some landscapes you understand better when you travel through them slowly. Lake Trasimeno is one of them. From a car, you see flashes of water between the trees, a succession of small towns and occasional views towards the islands. On a bicycle, the lake becomes the constant companion. Reeds move beside the path. Fishing boats sit offshore. Herons rise from the shallows. Hill towns appear across the water and disappear again as the shoreline curves away. And because

Oratorio Santa Cita Courtyard, Palermo, Sicily Palermo is full of churches. Some are grand, crowded, and immediately impressive. But tucked away in a small corner of the historic centre is something quite different — a group of spaces that feel quieter, more intimate, and often almost completely empty. Places where you can stand in front of extraordinary art — and have it entirely to yourself. Within just a few minutes’ walk, three remarkable interiors reveal a more delicate,

Hot Air Ballooning Over Tuscany: An Unforgettable Weekend by Train There is a moment, shortly after sunrise, when the burners fall silent. The balloon has finished climbing and suddenly there is almost no sound at all. Below you, Tuscany is beginning to wake up. Vineyards form neat lines across the hills. Olive groves surround old stone farmhouses. Cypress trees trace roads between villages and, in the distance, medieval towers emerge through the early morning haze. From the

The Bernina Pass There is a fast way to travel from Milan to Zurich. And then there is the way you will remember. Direct international trains can whisk you between the two cities in a little over three hours, disappearing beneath much of the Alps through the extraordinary Gotthard Base Tunnel. Efficient? Absolutely. But if you have five days rather than five hours, there is another route entirely. Leave Milan on a regional train and travel north beside Lake Como. Spend your f

SBB Gotthard Train crossing the Alps There is something wonderfully old-fashioned about the idea of leaving Paris by train and arriving in Venice a few days later. Not old-fashioned in the sense of being slow or difficult. Quite the opposite. Europe's modern railways have made this journey remarkably easy. High-speed trains carry you from Paris into Switzerland in around four hours. From Zurich, a direct EuroCity crosses the Alps into Italy. Another fast train takes you from

Ferrovia Circumetnea in Sicily Most visitors experience Mount Etna from a coach window or on a guided excursion to the summit. They admire Europe's highest active volcano for a few hours before returning to the coast, never discovering the communities that have lived in its shadow for centuries. The Ferrovia Circumetnea offers a completely different perspective. Departing from Catania, this historic narrow-gauge railway circles the lower slopes of Mount Etna through ancient l

One of the most rewarding parts of writing travel guides isn't seeing them climb the Amazon rankings. It's hearing from readers after they've returned home. Over the past year, Touring Italy by Train has become one of Amazon's best-selling Rail Travel Guides, consistently ranking in the Top 10 and helping thousands of travellers plan independent journeys across Italy. But what has been even more rewarding is reading the reviews from people who have actually used the guide on

If Italy has been sitting at the top of your travel wish list, this weekend is the perfect time to start planning. For Saturday 25 and Sunday 26 July, Touring Italy by Train is FREE to download on Kindle, giving you the chance to discover why it has become one of Amazon's best-selling rail travel guides and remains one of the most popular books in the Real Travel Guides collection. Since its launch, it has consistently ranked among Amazon's Top 10 Travel Guides for Italy Trav

Sweeping Views From Erice Some towns impress you because of what they contain. Erice captivates you because of where it sits. Perched high on a mountain overlooking western Sicily, this beautifully preserved medieval town appears to float above the sea. Stone streets wind between ancient churches and hidden courtyards, castle walls cling dramatically to the cliffs, and from almost every corner there are sweeping views across Trapani, the Egadi Islands and the sparkling Medite

The celebrations had barely begun before the yellow and red flags appeared. Drums echoed through the streets, church bells rang out across the rooftops, and supporters of Porta Romana celebrated another memorable victory in the 2026 Palio dei Rioni. For visitors, it may have looked like an exciting horse race. For the people of Castiglion Fiorentino, it was far more than that. The Palio is the emotional heart of the town. Families inherit loyalties from one generation to the

Castello di Montecchio Vesponi, Val Di Chiana, Tuscany Some Tuscan castles are famous. Others remain surprisingly overlooked. Castello di Montecchio Vesponi belongs firmly in the second category. Rising above the Val di Chiana between Castiglion Fiorentino and Cortona, its towers dominate the surrounding countryside much as they have for nearly a thousand years. Yet despite its extraordinary history, relatively few visitors ever make the short journey to explore it. That may

When people talk about Sicily's most beautiful beach, one place is mentioned more than any other. San Vito Lo Capo. Photographs usually focus on the dazzling white sand and turquoise water, often making it look more Caribbean than Mediterranean. But the beach is only part of the story. What makes San Vito Lo Capo special is the setting. The dramatic bulk of Monte Monaco rises behind the town. The wild coastline of the Zingaro Nature Reserve begins just beyond it. Fishing trad

Train Ferry Crossing from Calabria to Messina, Sicily There are sleeper trains. And then there is the train from Milan to Palermo. At almost twenty hours, it is one of the longest rail journeys in Western Europe — a train that leaves the financial heart of northern Italy one evening and arrives beneath the palms, domes and markets of Sicily the following afternoon. Most travellers fly. Many never see the country between. But on this train, Italy unfolds slowly. Cities become

Sunset at Lej Pitschen at The Bernina Pass, Graubünden, Switzerland Few rail journeys in the world are as instantly recognisable as the Bernina route. Images of red trains crossing high stone viaducts, glaciers in the background and lakes reflecting the sky have become almost shorthand for “scenic travel in Switzerland.” But what most people don’t realise is that the best way to experience this journey is not necessarily the famous panoramic train. It’s doing it independently

Palermo is full of grand buildings. Some impress immediately. Others reveal themselves more slowly — and stay with you far longer. Palazzo Chiaramonte Steri is one of those places. From the outside, it’s imposing but easy to pass by. Inside, it’s often quiet. And that’s what makes the experience so striking. A Palace with a Darker Story Built in the 14th century by the powerful Chiaramonte family, the Steri was once a symbol of wealth and authority. Later, under Spanish rule,

Palermo has no shortage of grand palaces. But some reveal themselves more slowly. Spending time in the city recently — and starting to get under the skin of it — we’ve come across a few places that most visitors miss completely. Palazzo Butera is one of them. And it’s one of the most quietly remarkable spaces in Palermo. A Palace Reimagined Originally built in the 18th century as a noble residence overlooking the sea, Palazzo Butera had, like much of Palermo, faded over time.

Venice by Night Venice changes completely after dark. By early evening, the day-trippers begin drifting back toward the station and airport buses, leaving the city quieter, softer and far more atmospheric. Vaporetto lights shimmer across the canals, footsteps echo through narrow alleys, and restaurant tables begin filling with Venetians rather than tour groups. It is at this hour that Venice feels most suited to departure. Boarding the overnight train north from Venezia Santa

Some buildings impress because of their scale, and others because of their history. The Palatine Chapel inside Palermo’s Norman Palace does something rarer: it overwhelms through detail. At first glance, the chapel feels almost impossibly ornate. Gold mosaics cover the ceilings and walls. Arabic-style wooden carvings sit above Byzantine saints. Norman architecture frames scenes that look more at home in Constantinople than Sicily. Every surface appears layered with symbolism,

Zurich by Night There is a point, somewhere after leaving Zurich, when the city lights disappear and the train begins climbing south toward the Alps. The dining car slowly empties. Conversations soften. Reflections from station platforms give way to darkness and mountain silhouettes. By midnight, most passengers have disappeared behind compartment doors as the Nightjet continues through Switzerland toward Italy. By morning, you wake approaching Rome. Not an airport outside th

Monreale Cathedral, Sicily High above the bustling streets of Palermo sits one of the most astonishing buildings in Europe: Monreale Cathedral. At first glance, it seems impossible that a place of such beauty remains relatively unknown outside Sicily. Visitors arrive expecting another impressive Italian church and instead walk into a golden masterpiece that feels closer to Constantinople or an Arabian palace than a typical European cathedral. The mosaics shimmer like fire. Th