Erice by Train and Cable Car: Sicily's Most Magical Hilltop Town
- Jul 5
- 7 min read
Some towns impress you because of what they contain.
Erice captivates you because of where it sits.
Perched high on a mountain overlooking western Sicily, this beautifully preserved medieval town appears to float above the sea. Stone streets wind between ancient churches and hidden courtyards, castle walls cling dramatically to the cliffs, and from almost every corner there are sweeping views across Trapani, the Egadi Islands and the sparkling Mediterranean beyond.
Reaching Erice is part of the experience.
Rather than tackling steep mountain roads, independent travellers can simply take the train to Trapani, spend the night by the sea, then glide effortlessly up the mountainside on the cable car the following morning.
No car.
No stressful driving.
Just one of Sicily's most rewarding day trips.
Why Visit Erice?
There are many beautiful hill towns in Italy.
Few feel quite as atmospheric as Erice.
Perched high above the western coast of Sicily, the town has remained remarkably unchanged for centuries. Narrow cobbled streets weave between medieval churches, hidden courtyards and ancient stone houses, creating the feeling of stepping into another era.
The streets are almost entirely pedestrian, allowing you to wander slowly from one panoramic viewpoint to the next, stopping at artisan workshops, tiny cafés and family-run bakeries.
Cloud often drifts across the mountain, adding an almost mystical atmosphere that locals have embraced for generations.
It is a place that rewards wandering.
There is no fixed itinerary.
Simply lose yourself among medieval lanes, hidden courtyards, tiny churches and spectacular viewpoints.
A Town Steeped in History
Long before the Romans arrived, Erice was already an important settlement.
The Elymians established one of Sicily's earliest communities here, drawn by the mountain's naturally defensive position overlooking the surrounding coastline.
Later came the Phoenicians, then the Carthaginians, before the Romans transformed the town into an important religious centre dedicated to Venus Erycina.
Legend even links the town to the Trojan hero Aeneas, giving Erice a place within classical mythology.
Throughout the Middle Ages, successive rulers strengthened the town's defences, building walls, gates and castles that still dominate the skyline today.
Walking through Erice feels like stepping through layer upon layer of Sicilian history.
Getting There Without a Car
One of the biggest misconceptions about western Sicily is that you need a hire car.
You don't.
From Palermo Centrale, regular regional trains run directly to Trapani in around four hours, depending on the service. The route passes vineyards, olive groves, rolling countryside and glimpses of the western coastline before arriving in Trapani's compact city centre.
If you're already touring Sicily by train, Trapani fits naturally into a wider itinerary alongside Palermo, Cefalù and Marsala.
After arriving, spend the night in Trapani.
The following morning, local buses or a pleasant walk bring you to the lower cable car station.
Within ten minutes, the Funivia di Erice lifts you more than 700 metres above sea level, revealing increasingly spectacular views across the coastline.
The journey itself is one of Sicily's hidden gems.
As the cabins climb through pine forest and rocky slopes, Trapani shrinks below while the Egadi Islands emerge on the horizon.
Few arrivals are quite so memorable.
A Little Tip Before You Go
Check the weather before heading up.
Erice is famous for its cloud.
Sometimes that creates wonderful atmosphere.
Sometimes it completely hides the views.
If the summit is covered in thick cloud first thing, it can be worth waiting an hour or two before taking the cable car, as conditions often improve later in the day.
On a clear day, however, the views are among the finest anywhere in Sicily.
Exploring Erice
The best way to experience Erice is simply to wander.
Every street seems to reveal another stone archway, flower-filled courtyard or tiny piazza.
Unlike many tourist destinations, there is very little traffic.
The town belongs to walkers.
One of the first landmarks you'll encounter is Porta Trapani, the historic gateway leading into the old town.
Beyond it, medieval streets branch in every direction, lined with artisan shops selling ceramics, local wines and almond pastries.
Castello di Venere
The highlight of any visit is Castello di Venere.
Built by the Normans during the 12th century, the castle stands on the site of the ancient Temple of Venus, once one of the Mediterranean's most important places of worship.
The setting is extraordinary.
Perched directly on the cliff edge, the castle overlooks Trapani, the salt pans, the Egadi Islands and the Tyrrhenian Sea beyond.
Allow time simply to sit on the surrounding terraces.
The scenery alone is worth the journey.
The Balio Gardens
Beside the castle lie the Giardino del Balio.
These beautifully landscaped gardens provide one of Sicily's finest viewpoints.
Stone paths wind beneath mature trees before opening onto panoramic terraces looking across western Sicily.
It is remarkably peaceful.
Many visitors spend far longer here than they expected.
Churches and Hidden Corners
Erice contains more than sixty churches, many dating back centuries.
The most impressive is the Real Duomo, whose striking bell tower dominates the skyline.
Climbing the tower rewards visitors with yet another spectacular panorama across the town and surrounding countryside.
But perhaps Erice's greatest pleasure lies away from the landmarks.
Turn down almost any side street and you'll discover quiet corners where time seems almost suspended.
Sicily's Sweetest Town
Erice has another claim to fame.
Its pastries.
The town is renowned throughout Sicily for traditional almond sweets, marzipan and delicate Genovesi pastries filled with warm custard.
No visit is complete without stopping at Pasticceria Maria Grammatico.
Maria's extraordinary life story is almost as famous as her cakes.
Raised in a convent where she learnt centuries-old baking techniques from the nuns, she later opened her own bakery, preserving recipes that have become part of Sicily's culinary heritage.
Today, visitors travel from around the world to taste them.
@pasticceria_maria_grammatico
Where to Eat in Erice
For lunch with unforgettable views, Ristorante Monte San Giuliano serves classic Sicilian cooking overlooking the valleys below. Fresh pasta, local cheeses, seasonal vegetables and traditional western Sicilian recipes make it the perfect place to linger over lunch while enjoying the scenery. @montesangiulianosrl
Another excellent choice is Ristorante La Pentolaccia, a charming family-run restaurant hidden among Erice's medieval streets. Its Trapani-style pesto, fresh seafood and homemade desserts have made it a favourite with both locals and returning visitors. @ristorant_lapentolaccia
Where to Stay in Trapani
Although accommodation exists in Erice itself, staying in Trapani makes the journey much easier while allowing time to enjoy this attractive coastal city.
Badia Nuova Apart Hotel combines stylish contemporary accommodation with historic surroundings in the heart of Trapani's old town. Everything is within walking distance, including restaurants, the harbour and the cable car bus connections. It offers bike rentals and has a fabulous rooftop bar. @badianuova
For another boutique option, Hotel San Michele occupies a beautifully restored historic building with elegant contemporary interiors and an excellent location for exploring the old town.@hotelsanmichele_trapani
Where to Eat in Trapani
Seafood has shaped Trapani's identity for centuries, and few places capture that heritage better than Ittiturismo La Tramontana.
Owned and run by a cooperative of local fishermen, this wonderfully authentic restaurant sitting on the seafront serves the freshest catch from the surrounding waters in generous portions at refreshingly reasonable prices. The menu changes with the day's catch, the atmosphere is lively and unmistakably local, and dining here offers a genuine taste of Trapani's maritime traditions. @ittiturismolatramontana
For a small restaurant in the heart of the historic centre, Osteria La Bettolaccia remains one of Trapani's best-loved locations. Expect excellent seafood couscous, fresh fish and classic Sicilian dishes served in relaxed surroundings that have made it a favourite with locals for many years.@la_bettolaccia
What Else to Do in Trapani
Trapani deserves far more than simply being a base for visiting Erice.
Spend time wandering the elegant seafront promenade as fishing boats return to the harbour.
Explore the historic centre with its Baroque churches, lively piazzas and narrow lanes lined with cafés and artisan shops.
Visit the famous Trapani Salt Pans, where centuries-old windmills stand beside brilliant white salt mounds and shallow lagoons that glow pink and gold at sunset.
If you have an extra day, take the ferry to the beautiful Egadi Islands, where crystal-clear water, traditional fishing villages and relaxed island life provide a completely different side of Sicily.
How Long Should You Allow for Erice?
A full day is ideal.
Take the cable car early.
Spend the morning exploring Erice's streets, castle and gardens.
Enjoy a long Sicilian lunch overlooking the valleys below.
Sample Maria Grammatico's famous pastries before returning to Trapani in the late afternoon.
Combined with one night in Trapani, it makes one of Sicily's most rewarding short breaks.
Why Erice Works So Well by Rail
Erice demonstrates exactly why independent rail travel works so well in Sicily.
The train brings you comfortably to Trapani.
The cable car completes the journey.
Everything else is explored on foot.
No parking.
No mountain driving.
No stress.
Just history, scenery, remarkable food and one of Italy's most atmospheric hill towns.
Sunset on the Town Walls in Trapani
After taking the cable car back down to Trapani, make time for one final stop.
As the afternoon fades into evening, head towards Moai Sunset Bar, perched on the ancient town walls with uninterrupted views across the bay towards the Torrina Conca and Torre di Ligny, has a great atmosphere and music to accompany your sundowner.
There are few better places in Sicily to end the day.
Order a cold Sicilian beer or an Aperol Spritz, find a perch overlooking the bay, and watch as the sun slowly sinks into the Mediterranean. It's wonderfully relaxed, refreshingly unpretentious and one of those moments that stays with you long after the journey is over.
If the weather is kind, this is quite simply one of the finest sunset viewpoints in Sicily.
@moaisunsetrapani
Exploring Italy by Rail
If you want to explore all of Italy without a car, grab yourself a copy of Touring Italy by Train.
The guide includes independent itineraries, practical transport advice, scenic rail journeys and hidden destinations across Italy, helping you explore far beyond the usual tourist trail.
Wherever you want to explore, travelling by train makes it easy to experience Italy at a slower, more rewarding pace.
Find the guide here:
You can also discover more rail journeys and authentic destinations at:
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