The Bernina Route by Train: Switzerland to Italy the Smart Way

May 20
5 min read

Sunset at Lej Pitschen at The Bernina Pass, Graubünden, Switzerland

Few rail journeys in the world are as instantly recognisable as the Bernina route.

Images of red trains crossing high stone viaducts, glaciers in the background and lakes reflecting the sky have become almost shorthand for “scenic travel in Switzerland.”

But what most people don’t realise is that the best way to experience this journey is not necessarily the famous panoramic train.

It’s doing it independently.

Travelling the Bernina route using regular regional trains — the same tracks, the same views, but with the freedom to stop, move at your own pace and avoid the structure of a fixed itinerary — transforms the experience completely.

You don’t just pass through the landscape.

You become part of it.

Why Plan This Journey Now

Like much of Switzerland, timing matters.

In peak summer, the Bernina Express sells out weeks in advance, and the panoramic carriages can feel crowded and detached from the landscape.

Late spring through early autumn is different.

May and June, in particular, offer one of the most interesting contrasts:

snow still visible at higher elevations
green valleys below
waterfalls at their most dramatic from melting ice

By September, the light softens again and the route becomes quieter.

These are the moments when travelling independently really pays off.

The Route: Chur to Tirano

The classic journey runs from Chur — Switzerland’s oldest town — to Tirano just across the Italian border.

In between, the railway climbs from low valleys into high Alpine terrain before descending again into Italy.

It is one of the steepest and most dramatic standard-gauge railways in Europe, and remarkably, it does so without tunnels through the highest sections.

Instead, it climbs openly through the mountains.

That is what makes the journey feel so immediate.

The Key Insight: Skip the Panoramic Train

The Bernina Express is famous for a reason.

But it comes with:

mandatory seat reservations
fixed timings
limited flexibility
a more “contained” experience

The regular regional trains run on exactly the same line.

They are quieter, more flexible, and crucially, allow you to:

open windows
move between carriages
get off along the route
control your pace

For travellers who prefer independent exploration, this is the better way to do it.

Leaving Chur

Departure from Chur feels understated.

There is no sense of spectacle at the beginning.

The train leaves the station like any other regional service, gradually passing through suburbs and farmland before beginning its climb.

This slow build is part of the experience.

Within an hour, the landscape has already begun to change.

The Landwasser Viaduct

One of the most photographed points on the route is the Landwasser Viaduct.

The train curves directly onto the viaduct before entering a tunnel cut into the mountain.

From inside the carriage, the transition happens quickly.

But if you sit on the right-hand side heading south, you get a clear view of the drop and the structure itself.

It is a moment that feels almost engineered for photography — yet remains surprisingly understated in real time.

Higher Into the Alps

As the train climbs, forests thin and the landscape becomes more exposed.

By the time you reach the Bernina Pass, you are over 2,200 metres above sea level.

Here, the scenery shifts again:

glacial lakes
snowfields (even in early summer)
wide, open terrain

One of the best places to stop is Alp Grüm.

Most travellers stay on the train.

That is a mistake.

Getting off here, even briefly, changes your understanding of the route completely.

The air is colder, the silence more pronounced, and the views stretch across the Val Poschiavo toward Italy.

Where to Eat Along the Bernina Route

One of the advantages of travelling the Bernina route independently is that you are not tied to a dining carriage or a fixed timetable.

You can stop.

And where you stop shapes the experience as much as the journey itself.

Most travellers stay on the train from start to finish. The more rewarding approach is to break the journey once or twice and experience the mountains — and the food — properly.

A Hidden Mountain Stop: Ospizio Bernina

The most atmospheric place to pause is Ospizio Bernina.

At over 2,200 metres above sea level, this is the highest point on the route — a stark, open landscape of glacial lakes and exposed rock that feels completely different from the valleys below.

Just beside the station, Albergo Ospizio Bernina offers exactly what you want at this stage of the journey: somewhere warm, simple and grounded in its surroundings.

Inside, the atmosphere is traditional Alpine — wood, stone, large windows framing the mountains — while the food leans into classic mountain dishes: soups, pasta, local cheeses and seasonal plates designed for the altitude rather than presentation.

It’s not about fine dining here.

It’s about stopping, sitting still, and properly experiencing the high Alps before continuing the descent into Italy. @ospiziobernina

A Refined Stop in the Engadin

If you choose to break the journey earlier around St Moritz, Langosteria St. Moritz offers a much more polished contrast.

Part of one of Italy’s most recognisable restaurant groups, it brings a seafood-led, lighter style of dining into the mountains — something that feels unexpectedly right after hours of Alpine scenery.

The interiors are contemporary, the crowd is a mix of locals and travellers, and the overall atmosphere feels distinctly modern rather than traditionally Swiss.

It works particularly well as a longer stop or overnight break point on the route.

@langosteria

Arrival in Italy: Tirano

By the time you reach Tirano, the transition is immediate.

The air softens. The colours deepen. And the food shifts back toward something unmistakably Italian — but still shaped by the mountains.

For a strong but relaxed arrival meal, Parravicini Restaurant & Wine Bar is one of the best options in town.

Set in a historic building near the centre, it combines traditional Valtellina cooking with a more contemporary presentation and a strong focus on wine. It feels local but polished — exactly the kind of place that works at the end of this journey.

It’s somewhere to sit, slow down, and let the day's experience settle before moving on. @parravicinirestaurant

Where to Stay

In Chur, Hotel Stern Chur offers a historic base in the old town, with a strong sense of place rather than generic Swiss efficiency. @hotel_stern_chur

In St Moritz, Kulm Hotel St. Moritz provides one of the most iconic Alpine stays, particularly for travellers wanting to extend the journey. @kulmhotel

In Poschiavo, Hotel Albrici Poschiavo is a quieter, more characterful alternative that many travellers overlook. @hotel_albrici

How to Do It Smart

The best version of this journey is not rushed.

Start early.

Take a regional train.

Plan at least one stop — ideally Alp Grüm.

Bring food or buy locally.

Sit on both sides of the train at different stages if possible.

And allow the journey to unfold rather than trying to capture every moment.

Why This Journey Matters

The Bernina route is often described as one of the world’s great train journeys.

But what makes it special is not simply the scenery.

It is the transition.

You move gradually between landscapes, climates and cultures without interruption.

That continuity is what rail travel does better than anything else.

Exploring Switzerland and Italy by Train

Journeys like this are exactly why Switzerland and Italy work so well by rail.

If you want to explore both countries independently — combining scenic routes with real destinations — Touring Switzerland by Train and Touring Italy by Train are designed to help you do it.

They include: