Bologna to Florence on the Old Apennine Line: Italy’s Slow, Scenic Alternative to High-Speed Rail

realtravelguides
Jan 20
2 min read

Why Go

Most travellers rush between Bologna and Florence on a 90-minute high-speed train, spending the entire journey inside tunnels. The historic Porrettana Line does the opposite. It climbs steadily into the Apennines, crosses wooded ridges and mountain valleys, and descends gently into Tuscany — restoring the sense of place that fast rail removes.

This is one of Italy’s most rewarding examples of choosing the right train, not the fastest one.

A Little Background

Opened in 1864, the Porrettana Railway was Italy’s first true mountain crossing. For decades it was the main north–south route until modern tunnels replaced it. Today, it survives as a regional line — slower, humbler, and far more beautiful.

What to Expect on the Train

These are Regionale services: older but comfortable, with large windows and a relaxed, local atmosphere. Expect students, commuters, and elderly passengers who’ve ridden this line all their lives. There’s no café service, so bring water and snacks.

Best seats: left-hand side leaving Bologna for the widest valley views.

How to Do the Journey

Route: Bologna Centrale → Porretta Terme → Pistoia → Florence SMN
Duration: approx. 2½–3 hours
Frequency: roughly hourly
Tickets: flexible regional tickets via Trenitalia

Tip: double-check you haven’t selected a Frecciarossa — that bypasses everything.

Best Time to Go

May–June & Sept–Oct: green forests, clear light
Summer: cooler than the cities, very pleasant
Winter: atmospheric but slower services and early sunsets

Where to Stay (Rail-Friendly)

Bologna: near Bologna Centrale for easy departure, or the historic centre if staying longer
Florence: Santa Maria Novella area for onward travel, Oltrarno for character
Porretta Terme: an underrated overnight stop with thermal baths, right by the station

What to Eat Along the Way

Bologna’s rich pasta dishes give way to mountain chestnut cakes and rustic cheeses, before Tuscan soups, olive oil, and red wines take over in Florence. The food mirrors the landscape change beautifully.

Why This Route Works So Well by Train

Driving this route by car is slow and stressful; the train lets you enjoy the climb, enjoy the landscape, and arrive relaxed. It’s a reminder that some journeys are meant to be savoured!