Clermont-Ferrand to Béziers by Train: France’s Most Underrated Scenic Rail Journey

realtravelguides
Jan 12
4 min read

The Aubrac Line doesn’t try to impress you — and that’s its strength. Running from Clermont-Ferrand to Béziers, this is one of France’s most quietly powerful rail journeys.

Here, the drama lies in space. Wide plateaus. Empty horizons. Tiny stations where the train feels like an event rather than a routine.

Why This Is One of France’s Most Underrated Train Journeys

The Aubrac region is sparsely populated, agriculturally rooted, and deeply traditional. The railway crosses landscapes that feel unchanged for decades — sometimes centuries.

The journey builds slowly, culminating in one unforgettable moment: the crossing of the Garabit Viaduct, designed by Gustave Eiffel, soaring high above the Truyère River.

The Route at a Glance

Route: Clermont-Ferrand → Béziers
Train type: Intercités or TER (depending on service)
Journey time: approx. 6–7 hours
Best seats: right-hand side heading south (for the viaduct)

What You’ll See

The train traverses:

Volcanic uplands
Isolated farmland
Deep river gorges
Expansive skies that dominate the experience

This is a journey that encourages reflection — one where the rhythm of the train matches the rhythm of the land.

When to Go

Best months: May–June and early autumn
Summer: Long daylight hours enhance the sense of space
Winter: Beautiful but services can be reduced

Why This Route Works So Well by Train

This is exactly the kind of landscape that’s best seen by rail. Roads here are slow, indirect, and tiring. The train allows you to experience the vastness without effort — simply watching France unfold.

A journey as long and atmospheric as the Aubrac Line deserves more than a quick turnaround. Both Clermont-Ferrand and Béziers are ideal places to slow down, settle in, and experience two very different sides of France — volcanic Auvergne in the north, sun-washed Occitanie in the south.

Clermont-Ferrand: Volcanic Landscapes, Dark Stone & Hearty Cuisine

(Best to stay: 1–2 nights before the journey)

Clermont-Ferrand is often overlooked, which is exactly what makes it so appealing. Built from black volcanic stone, the city feels grounded, solid, and quietly confident — a perfect prelude to the wide-open landscapes of the Aubrac.

What to Do in Clermont-Ferrand

Start in the historic centre, where the dramatic Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption dominates the skyline. Its dark lava-stone façade is unlike any other cathedral in France.

From there:

Wander Place de la Victoire and the surrounding streets
Visit Basilique Notre-Dame-du-Port, a UNESCO-listed Romanesque gem
If you have time, take a bus or train toward the Chaîne des Puys for short walks and panoramic views

This is a city that rewards curiosity rather than checklist sightseeing.

Where to Stay in Clermont-Ferrand

For rail travellers, location matters — and Clermont-Ferrand makes it easy.

Near the historic centre: Ideal for atmosphere, dining, and walking
Near the station (Gare de Clermont-Ferrand): Convenient for early departures, still within walking distance of the centre

Look for:

Small boutique hotels in converted historic buildings
Comfortable mid-range hotels rather than chains
Apartments if staying two nights and wanting space

What to Eat in Clermont-Ferrand

This is serious comfort-food territory — perfect before a long rail journey.

Don’t miss:

Truffade (potatoes, melted cheese, garlic)
Aligot (elastic mashed potatoes with cheese — iconic Auvergne)
Local cheeses: Saint-Nectaire, Bleu d’Auvergne, Cantal

Pair with Auvergne wines or a local bière artisanale. This is food designed to fortify you for mountain crossings.

Béziers: Southern Light, Wine & the Canal du Midi

(Best to stay: 1–3 nights after the journey)

After hours of plateaus, viaducts, and silence, arriving in Béziers feels like stepping into the sun. The air changes. The light softens. The pace slows.

Béziers sits proudly above the Canal du Midi, surrounded by vineyards and only a short train ride from the Mediterranean.

What to Do in Béziers

Begin in the old town:

Visit Cathédrale Saint-Nazaire, dramatically perched above the Orb River
Walk the Pont Vieux for views back toward the city
Explore the Fonseranes Locks, one of the most impressive sections of the Canal du Midi

If you want a change of scene:

Take a short train ride to the coast (Valras-Plage, Sérignan)
Or head inland to wine villages in the Languedoc

Where to Stay in Béziers

Béziers works best if you stay in or near the old town.

Good options include:

Boutique hotels in historic buildings
Guesthouses overlooking the Orb or canal
Apartments if staying longer or travelling slowly south

Staying centrally allows you to explore on foot — a welcome change after a long rail journey.

What to Eat in Béziers

Food here is lighter, Mediterranean, and wine-led — a natural contrast to Auvergne’s richness.