Salerno & the Hidden Amalfi Coast: Vietri, Cetara and Erchie
- realtravelguides
- Sep 30
- 2 min read
Skip the crowds of Positano and Amalfi and base yourself in Salerno, a lively city with excellent rail links, a new airport, and easy access to the quieter southern Amalfi Coast towns of Vietri sul Mare, Cetara, and Erchie. From colorful ceramics to anchovy feasts, this part of the coast is authentic, affordable, and far less hectic.
Why Go?
Salerno is both a destination in its own right and the best gateway to the Amalfi Coast. With its medieval old town, vibrant promenade, and direct trains from Rome and Naples, it’s the perfect base for exploring the southern towns without the tourist crush.
History
In medieval times, Salerno hosted the Schola Medica Salernitana, Europe’s first medical school. Its cathedral houses the tomb of St. Matthew, one of the apostles. Vietri became famous for ceramics, while Cetara’s fishing fleets brought anchovies and tuna to southern Italy.
What to Expect
A bustling but less touristy city atmosphere.
Sandy beaches and fishing villages nearby.
Fresh seafood, especially anchovies from Cetara.
Easy train, bus, and ferry connections.
5 Things to Do and See
Stroll Salerno’s Lungomare Trieste, one of Italy’s prettiest seaside promenades.
Visit the medieval Duomo di Salerno, with its Romanesque crypt.
Explore Vietri sul Mare, browsing its colorful ceramic shops.
Swim or sunbathe on Erchie’s secluded beaches, framed by cliffs.
Take a short trip to Cetara to taste anchovy-based dishes and sauces.
Food Culture
The southern Amalfi Coast is famous for anchovies from Cetara, used fresh, salted, or transformed into colatura di alici (a rich anchovy essence). Pair them with pasta, lemon desserts, and crisp white wines.
Where to Eat
Ristorante Cicirinella (Salerno) – Inventive seafood and seasonal local produce.
Divina Vietri (Vietri sul Mare) – Known for anchovy pastas and ceramics-themed interiors.
Al Convento (Cetara) – Famous for anchovy tasting menus, a must for food lovers.
Where to Stay
Hotel Montestella – Historic, family-run hotel on Salerno’s main street, close to the station and seafront.
B&B Bouganville – A cozy, centrally located guesthouse with a seafront terrace surrounded by lemon trees, perfect for exploring the city and taking day trips.
Off the Beaten Track
Catch a ferry to Maiori and Minori, less-visited towns with wide beaches and traditional lemon pastries like delizia al limone.
How to Get There by Train/Bus
Trains from Naples (40 mins) or Rome (2h) arrive directly in Salerno. From there:
Vietri sul Mare is 10 mins by local train or bus.
Erchie and Cetara are 20–30 mins by SITA bus or ferry.
Salerno Costa d’Amalfi Airport which reopened in July 2024 offers an easy connection to shuttles and buses into Salerno station. The airport currently offers direct access to Salerno from Ryanair, Easyjet and Volotea, with a new terminal under construction for completion in 2026/7.
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